Some people have asked about the new cover I use to cover the drive train of my bike when I carry it in the back of my new Prius. . .
Look here.
Tuesday, January 26, 2010
Wednesday, January 20, 2010
New Rider, Learning Rider, Some Tips. . .
Each year new riders or riders looking to "move up" either increase their riding with groups or begin riding with groups that are faster or more "serious" than their usual groups. . .
Bicycle handling and bicycle etiquette in new adventures are challenges to new and learning riders. . .
So here are some tips (some big and some small):
• Do NOT close your REAR WHEEL QR SKEWER pointing directly backward; instead close the rear QR skewer upward/slightly to the left into the triangle formed by your left (non-drive side) seat stay and chain stay. Why? The skewer pointing back ward can trap the front wheel of rider who overlaps from the rear. . .AND having your skewer closed into the triangle signals to other riders you know what you are doing. (Yep, joining different groups of riders includes signals about experience and "seriousness". . .a lot like high school. . .)
• Learn to ride a straight line. This comes from having your weight properly balanced on the bicycle and proper bicycle fit. Many new or beginning riders have their stack height between their headset and stem HIGH and their stem angled UPWARD (instead of the traditional flat)—both of which impact handling (actually, these characteristics make the rider more upright and the front end "twitchy"). Your weight should be primarily on your sit bones and pedals (a tremendous amount of your bicycle control is through your legs/feet and into the frame by your pedals—if you ever ride a Mt bike with clip-in pedals, you know what I mean). The most common error made by new riders is excess weight on the handlebars. When you look around or back, your excess weight on the handlebars makes the bicycle swerve, making you dangerous. Bicycles are amazing machines. When the wheels are spinning, they stay straight unless LEANED. Learn to look around WITHOUT shifting your hand pressure on your bars. For example, when you look back, you can move your hand that is on the bar toward the stems and consciously NOT lean on it. The bicycle will stay straight. But, keeping a straight line in all situations takes PRACTICE. So practice.
• Learn to participate in a pace line. Here is a good discussion of the do's and don't's. One additional tip I would add watch experienced riders and talk about HOW to participate in a pace line. Do not make any sudden movements—don't accelerate, don't slow suddenly, don't swing hard left or right. And keep the group TIGHT; riding closely (front-to-back and left-to-right) is the PURPOSE of a paceline. . .If you make large gaps, you are defeating the purpose (so, for example, do not swing way left when you pull off the front; move over calmly and just a bit wider than the cyclist pulling through needs).
• Yes, we talk on rides. But you don't have to look at the person you are talking to. If you must talk, keep your eyes ahead and focused on riding safely. And don't allow a gap to form so you and a buddy can chat. That is rude and dangerous to the other riders. If you MUST stare longingly into your riding buddy's eyes, both of you should move to the back of the group and there you can ride at your own risk. . .
Bicycle handling and bicycle etiquette in new adventures are challenges to new and learning riders. . .
So here are some tips (some big and some small):
• Do NOT close your REAR WHEEL QR SKEWER pointing directly backward; instead close the rear QR skewer upward/slightly to the left into the triangle formed by your left (non-drive side) seat stay and chain stay. Why? The skewer pointing back ward can trap the front wheel of rider who overlaps from the rear. . .AND having your skewer closed into the triangle signals to other riders you know what you are doing. (Yep, joining different groups of riders includes signals about experience and "seriousness". . .a lot like high school. . .)
• Learn to ride a straight line. This comes from having your weight properly balanced on the bicycle and proper bicycle fit. Many new or beginning riders have their stack height between their headset and stem HIGH and their stem angled UPWARD (instead of the traditional flat)—both of which impact handling (actually, these characteristics make the rider more upright and the front end "twitchy"). Your weight should be primarily on your sit bones and pedals (a tremendous amount of your bicycle control is through your legs/feet and into the frame by your pedals—if you ever ride a Mt bike with clip-in pedals, you know what I mean). The most common error made by new riders is excess weight on the handlebars. When you look around or back, your excess weight on the handlebars makes the bicycle swerve, making you dangerous. Bicycles are amazing machines. When the wheels are spinning, they stay straight unless LEANED. Learn to look around WITHOUT shifting your hand pressure on your bars. For example, when you look back, you can move your hand that is on the bar toward the stems and consciously NOT lean on it. The bicycle will stay straight. But, keeping a straight line in all situations takes PRACTICE. So practice.
• Learn to participate in a pace line. Here is a good discussion of the do's and don't's. One additional tip I would add watch experienced riders and talk about HOW to participate in a pace line. Do not make any sudden movements—don't accelerate, don't slow suddenly, don't swing hard left or right. And keep the group TIGHT; riding closely (front-to-back and left-to-right) is the PURPOSE of a paceline. . .If you make large gaps, you are defeating the purpose (so, for example, do not swing way left when you pull off the front; move over calmly and just a bit wider than the cyclist pulling through needs).
• Yes, we talk on rides. But you don't have to look at the person you are talking to. If you must talk, keep your eyes ahead and focused on riding safely. And don't allow a gap to form so you and a buddy can chat. That is rude and dangerous to the other riders. If you MUST stare longingly into your riding buddy's eyes, both of you should move to the back of the group and there you can ride at your own risk. . .
Local rider request
Anyone interested in allowing me to test-ride their Lynsky (or other Ti) road bike? I ride a size 52 bike. I usually ride the GE Sunday afternoon group ride.
Mark Morrison
864-293-8845
Mark Morrison
864-293-8845
Monday, January 18, 2010
Nice Video Review: BMC Pro Machine SLC 01
Watch the video review at Competitive Cyclist of the BMC Pro Machine SLC 01.
Review: Scott CR1 SL
See a review of the 2010 Scott CR1 SL at cylcingnews.
Friday, January 15, 2010
Going to SRAM? Try the 2010 Force group
I have converted in the last year entirely to SRAM components and have been overall very pleased.
The only negatives I have experienced:
• SRAM Red brake calipers have no extra finish and pit. . .really bad idea for SRAM; my Force calipers are anodized and they look great (both 2009 and 2010).
• Fixing bolts/nuts on brake calipers and shifters are prone to RUST. . .I do not understand using materials that rust on high-end components. . .but you will not see this unless you remove or change components. . .
Great new review of SRAM Force 2010 at cyclingnews. . .
The only negatives I have experienced:
• SRAM Red brake calipers have no extra finish and pit. . .really bad idea for SRAM; my Force calipers are anodized and they look great (both 2009 and 2010).
• Fixing bolts/nuts on brake calipers and shifters are prone to RUST. . .I do not understand using materials that rust on high-end components. . .but you will not see this unless you remove or change components. . .
Great new review of SRAM Force 2010 at cyclingnews. . .
Thursday, January 14, 2010
"How To" with video!
A coupe months back, I had a chain break on a ride and Steve Verdell had a quick link he let me use to finish the ride. I ordered a couple of the quick links for my saddle bag to to repay Steve.
When I tried to remove the one I borrowed, I was having no luck. . .so I googled how to remove it and found this site with great videos of "how to" concenrign bicycle repair, etc.
Bicycle Tutor
When I tried to remove the one I borrowed, I was having no luck. . .so I googled how to remove it and found this site with great videos of "how to" concenrign bicycle repair, etc.
Bicycle Tutor
Wheels?
I receive quite a few questions about wheelsets to buy and use. . .
I do not work for these guys, but have been convinced that the Williams wheelsets are the best for us normal people looking for quality, trick stuff (carbon wheels), and reasonable (well, for cycling stuff) pricing:
Williams Cycling
I do not work for these guys, but have been convinced that the Williams wheelsets are the best for us normal people looking for quality, trick stuff (carbon wheels), and reasonable (well, for cycling stuff) pricing:
Williams Cycling
New blog name, and how about a bicycle review?
I plan to begin updating this blog with information on bicycles, parts, clothing, repair, and whatever my cycling friends and I have questions about and interest in. . .so give me a yell if you want information on something related to bicycles. . .
Let's start with a cyclingnews review of the Madone 6.
(And yes, the one reviewed DOES match my globalbike kit. . .hmmm. . .)
Let's start with a cyclingnews review of the Madone 6.
(And yes, the one reviewed DOES match my globalbike kit. . .hmmm. . .)
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